Really?....well then...here is a temp set up at my desk....

<a target='_blank' title='ImageShack - Image And Video Hosting' href='http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/337/img0001fs.jpg/'><img src='http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/5204/img0001fs.jpg' border='0'/></a>

So this is where everything got hid.

I tried the triple monitor setup but couldn't get the FOV right. Puke city

Steve

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Speed provides the one genuinely modern pleasure. - Aldous Huxley

Spent about two frustrating hours last night doing timetrials. Not sure if my steering just isn't dialed in right or what but even doing 6/10ths I'm finding it really hard to keep things clean. Really having trouble adapting to the sense of momentum.

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2005 Forester XT (Daily/B2Tuned), 2000 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS P4WD Class Rally Car, 2006 WRX RallyCross Car (Sponsors: Rally-Tech, Great North Performance, ISI Automotive)
Check out: Rally East, The Ledwidge Lookoff Rally

Gord, I don't know what you mean by tweaking the steering? You need to set the logitech drivers in windows to 900deg and then set iRacing to 900deg. This is the only way to get 1:1 real feel steering. You shouldn't have, especially in the MX-5 cars, any kind of non linear steering setup.
Try it and see if it helps you at all.

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Brian
VP, AMP
#51 Vantage Motorsports

Sorry for the late reply. Yes FOV is field of view. When you first load a session you have the garage and options tab. Open options tab, then graphs tab at the bottom of the screen. Once that is open you have a place to enter the size of you monitor on the top left. That is the FOV calculator. Measure your monitor with and without bezel like it asks and fill in the proper fields. With a single screen you want to get it down to 45 Deg. with single screen , 179 Deg. with triple screen, You can't change the size of you monitor but you can change how far away it is. So you want to set the FOV to 45 and leave the distance field blank and let the calculator fill it in. That is how far away from your monitor you should be. Iracing defaults to 75 I think, or it did.
While you are there ,under the FOV calculator there is a field for mirror FOV, Set that to 45 as well and pick up a few FPS. Plus cars will be where they should. Takes away the curved mirror effect.
The problem with FOV set wrong is it is like looking out your windshield through a fish eye lens, It distorts distance and speed. Very hard to drive that way. Now the bad part, you cant see very much. It closes in your FOV, what you can see, and it feels wrong at first because you are not use to it and you have to learn to drive all over again. But trust me. It is right and it will be a lot easier to drive after you relearn with the right FOV. I drove with it wrong for along while and got pretty good at it. But when I set it right after a few days my PB times started to drop. This is the big reason people go to thee screens , brings your real FOV , what you can see back.
There is a lot of info in the iracing forms. John Bodin has great post and all his info is very good. There are many hidden settings in Iracing that can help with FPS ,graphic settings, pitch, yaw. Too many things to get it to here. Its all in the forms, but if I can help anyone I will be happy too.
As for what it takes to run three screens. I ran it on a AMD 6400+ Athlon 2, two gigs of ram and ATI radeon 6870. That was about the minimum. It was just OK but not great. Iracing like lots of CPU. Better a good CPU and poor video card than the other way around. It is easier to do three screen with ATI cards, Radeon 57xx and newer, as you only need one. Nvidia you need two cards . Because with ATI supports eyefinty. Very easy to set up.
My email is b.weatherbee@ns.sympatico.ca if anyone needs help or would like to try three screens before they run out and buy three HD projecters .

Yeah, I got a feeling it'll be tough to keep a class A license while still trying to win races. I got mine by running at the back of the field playing it safe.

Someone asked me what my dual monitor setup looked like, so here's a few pics. Sorry they didn't turn out better.

One shows the cockpit view of an open wheeler and the other of a tin top, to see the different perspectives:

Here's the information on how to do it: http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/65406.page

I lost some FPS, but overall I like it better than just a single monitor. It really helps you see what's coming up around the corner (well, on right-hand turns anyway).

Only problem is that it really makes me want a triple screen setup. However, I don't think my system can handle it, even if I picked up a second video card.

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1997 Talon TSi AWD
2008 EVO X MR

Good find on those promo codes. Wonder if they still work?

You don't need a mic in iRacing. I'd say only 25% use mics, which is probably a good thing. The rest text chat.

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1997 Talon TSi AWD
2008 EVO X MR

I plugged the promo in and it took me to the pay now screen ...so I'm hoping? I just didn't want to join then find out that I am limited to Nascar racing or something...

Text chat? Isn't that illegal in NB and NS while operating a motor vehicle?

Stacy

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The fricton circle for my 911 Porsche resembles more of an oblong... I'm either trailbraking or accelerating while trying to get it to turn!

Scott...you don't need a second card...I am using the Sapphire Radeon HD 5770 and one displayport adapter and it works pretty good....85 FPS.

I'll get some pics tonight of me in the seat and post...just for sh!ts and giggles.

I was out on the skidpad and I damn near fell over from getting dizzy...need to adjust the FOV.

I ruin the picture when I'm in the seat so no me!!

Hmmmm....this Iracing is not too easy! As Gordon mentioned it's very hard to equate the indicated speed with the visual speed.
The overall feel is too light (like driving a big old Ford) when I am actually in a Miata.
Gonna take more time to learn then GT5 that's for sure!

Hey Paul...got any extra time to drop by and help me set up my car ??

They need an option of having a set up man in the garage...pay with Iracing bucks !!

Remember it's in MPH, not KPH.

Everything I've read says that the lap times in iRacing match the real car in real life, right down to the second. So the level of grip / physics must be pretty accurate.

As for the "light" wheel feeling, the force feedback strength really needs to be adjusted for each individual car in iRacing. Thankfully, there's a "use custom controls for this car" checkbox on the options page, so you don't have to change the settings every time you switch cars.

To find out what the optimal force feedback strength is for each car, you can use this iRacing FFB Tool. Here's a thread from the iRacing forums which goes into further detail: http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts ... 13166.page

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1997 Talon TSi AWD
2008 EVO X MR

.....WAAAAAAA!!!!!...I can't get my new shifter to work !!

It's taking away from my practise time...."Bummer".

Hmmmm....

I have a NVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT, which doesn't have a DisplayPort. Just two DVIs.

However, I have a line on a used Sapphire Radeon HD 6790 for $100. It has a DisplayPort, HDMI 1.4 and two DVIs.

So all I'd need is the $40 DisplayPort adapter? Does it support mismatched monitor sizes / resolutions? I have one 25" LCD at 1920×1080 and one 19" LCD at 1440 x900. To keep it cheap, I was thinking I could pick up a second used 19" LCD.

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1997 Talon TSi AWD
2008 EVO X MR

That would be a nice card to have Scott and yes you would still require the adapter.

Saphire Active Displayport Adapter
P/N CA00112-R0

MysteryBytes has them.

Have not tried the different resolutions but there is a setting for it in each monitor.

Hey Scott...did you get your multiple monitors working?

Looks like you need to have all the monitors at the same resolution...bummer!

I was having issues and I had to go into the INI. files and change the resolution and the screen number to make it work with the newest monitor.

Last night I finally got things working in Iracing so I could run the track and actually feel good about how it was going...now I just need to tweak the wheel and bolt down the pedal assembly (for those panic situations) and I should be good to go.

....hold on....what about the sounds...where did I put the headset at...I gotta stop changing the room set up and just go with it.

No, I have not pursued it further as of yet, but I'm pretty sure a 3rd monitor would have allowed me to avoid that incident I had during the RACC Final last night.... I simply couldn't see where the guy was next to me.

So yeah, it looks like I'd need to run all three monitors at 1440 x900, which might look messed up in my middle 1920×1080 monitor.

Or I might be able to run iRacing in Windowed mode at different resolutions, like I am now with dual monitors. I dunno.

I also wonder if a beefier video card would help my frame rate. At some tracks like Spa, there are sections where my FPS falls into the 20's. I can hardly see anything. Although I don't know if my FPS is a function of my current video card or that fact that I only have a dual core processor. I've read that iRacing is very processor intensive.

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1997 Talon TSi AWD
2008 EVO X MR

Hopefully someday I can get setup with 3 monitor as well ...oh that would be nice!

First I got to get my brakes to work better as I've been having trouble modulating the brakes. Is there any way to make it lock up farther down on the pedal travel as I have no more than an 3/4" travel between off pedal and lockup? I've adjusted the brake force curve factor but it doesn't make much difference (cheap Momo pedals maybe?) and I even played around with calibrating them at different posistions (which as I expected only made it worse).

Tonight if I have time before the race I'm going try a piece of rigid foam behind the pedal to at least give it more resistance so when I brush it with my foot I don't go into full lockup

Thanks
Stacy

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The fricton circle for my 911 Porsche resembles more of an oblong... I'm either trailbraking or accelerating while trying to get it to turn!

Change your brake curve factor..... see it in the screenshot above.

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"The future is already here — it's just not very evenly distributed."-William Gibson
1989 Van Diemen - Formula 2000 Continental

I don't think there is anything you can do to adjust the lockup-point on your pedal set beyond what you have already tried. You really need a load cell pedal set.

Perhaps look into building your own load cell set using this CST Do It Yourself Pedal Guide. Or splurge on a set of Fanatec ClubSport Pedals.

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1997 Talon TSi AWD
2008 EVO X MR

Stacy...try a brake force curve factor of 2.01....that moved my lock up farther down the pedal stroke.

Hope this helps.....

The next best thing to a load cell or hydraulic brake pedal is the nixim mod. Its a small piece of rubber about 3/4" long that goes inside your brake pedal spring. Then you set the brake force factor
in iracing to 5. What it does is moves most of you braking to the end of the travel where the rubber offers resistance. It gives you some feel instead just travel. I used it for a while and was a big improvement over stock pedals. Really helps with the lock up. I used a rubber hockey puck and cut it with a hacksaw down to size. Played with the length to get the feel the best I could. Google it or look on inside sim racing ,they did a review on it. Probability the best bang for the buck mod out there.

I tried again the other night to get mine to work properly but was only seeing 30-35 fps. Way too hard on the eyes. I'll have to hold off until i can get a system up and running that can run it.

Steve, have you tried going into the advanced graphics options and turning everything off? That's what I have done for mine and average 80-90 FPS. I don't get to see the stands, crowds, buildings, tents, car mirrors, etc. But it works.

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1997 Talon TSi AWD
2008 EVO X MR

The only time I have problems is at the start of a race with 10-20 cars...hard on the head!...But I have everything running at the moment.

May have to turn off a few things until I can resolve the problem.

PS. I am having an issue with blowing up car engines when I accidently hit the down shift paddle at speed...what a bummer!

Finally!...just recieved the shifter from UPS, about 20 minutes ago, and got it all set up and installed...much better.
This feels more like a miata now that I can shift gears with a gated shifter...will have to learn to be fast with the shifter but I feel I will be better off using it instead of the paddles...just feels right!

Back to the test sessions for me...

Steve, my computer is 7-8 years old and i have no problem with running iRacing. There are a few very important graphics hungry (meaning FPS) settings that need to be turned off or down and everything should be fine. I have all detail turned on, but set to low execpt for the car detail is set to medium. Turn off things like vertical shaders, antilasing something or another, don't use both side mirrors and rear view mirrors, turn off the side mirrors they use more graphics. Remove the hands from the steering wheel, set to cache track in memory... I can't remember everything. The easist thing to do is to click on the "advanced" button under graphics and slide the bar all the way over to "MAX Frame Rate". See what that does for you and then start turning a few things back on to give you move graphics appeal.

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Brian
VP, AMP
#51 Vantage Motorsports

Here's a great article that further explains what Brian was saying about Field of View (FOV)...

Link: Field of View Explained (pdf)

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1997 Talon TSi AWD
2008 EVO X MR

Here you go Kevin... A bargain at $12K

To me, the only way to have a "realistic" motion simulator is if the whole base (incl monitors) move together, which this one does. Many other simulators only move the seat, or seat & pedals, but not the screen(s).

Link: http://www.bluetiger.com/index.html

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1997 Talon TSi AWD
2008 EVO X MR

This is too cool not to share...

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1997 Talon TSi AWD
2008 EVO X MR