This board is dead and I'm antsy to get back in the driver's seat
I got my car re-aligned in anticipation of Sunday's event

Now I'm at:
Camber
-3.2 front, -2.0 back

Caster
6.5 or so

Toe
Zero front and back


What's yours?

_________________
Money ---> Heat and Noise

MMSC #12/ASP

Good idea Mike, I'd like to get some input from experienced folks. I've tinkered with mine to find a reasonable compromise for street/slalom and this is where it's at now:

-0.5 camber
5.5 caster
1/8" toe-in

My front parts combo is supposed to eliminate almost all of the factory bump steer issues but I still have this problem in spades (From Trackpedia):

Straight line instability: car darts over bumps (especially one wheel bumps)

Excessive Ackermann steering geometry
Excessive front toe-in or toe-out
Uneven front caster or trail settings
Insufficient rear wheel droop travel
Dead shock or uneven shock forces or incorrectly adjusted packers/bump rubbers
Wildly uneven corner weights
Front anti-roll bar miles too stiff

Suggestions welcome! I know Ackermann is bad from the factory and the wide wheel and tire combo makes it worse. My front sway bar is 33 mm with minimal height poly bushings and short links - it could be a bit much also.

_________________
You can't make a race car out of a pig, but you can make a pretty fast pig.
The pigs - '95 Firebird, '09 G8 Gt

The Celica is FWD and the EVO is AWD so the setup is similar. I think the setup would be somewhat different for RWD.

The Celica has -1.2 deg/side (-2.4 deg total) camber front and back. A bit of toe out in front and zero toe in back. Setup is a compromise between the street and slalom. The EVO is about the same except I have a bit more negative camber. Think it's -1.3 deg/side in front and -1.5/side in the back. Both cars are hard on tires. Street tires wear on the inside. Competition tires wear on the outside. Both cars drive pretty neutral.

You can add some toe out in the rear to get a FWD car to turn better, but it also makes it twitchy. Not sure how that works on AWD.

Talon:
Camber -2.5F/-1.5R
Toe zero all around
Max caster 5-6 deg?

EVO:
Camber -2.0F/-1.0R
Toe zero all around
Caster... dunno.

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1997 Talon TSi AWD
2008 EVO X MR

IMHO you still have bumpsteer problems (Edit ...although the one wheel dartiness may throw my theory right out the window).
Took me a whole first season to figure it out on my 914/6 (...once I got a gopro I quickly realized how much I was sawing hard on the steering wheel down the backstraight at AMP)

I made a bumpsteer gauge out of some Princess Auto dial indicators (based on some advice from Leigh P.) and found that for 1" of travel I was getting massive amounts of toe change. The problems is not completely done away with yet despite a $480 bumpsteer correction kit ...but at least I don't have that feeling like I'm going to pitch it into the trees anymore

Stacy

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The fricton circle for my 911 Porsche resembles more of an oblong... I'm either trailbraking or accelerating while trying to get it to turn!

With -2.5 degrees on each side in the front I was still getting excessive outside shoulder wear when autocrossing, that was why I bumped it up to -3.2 on each side (Hoosier suggests > 3.0)
I'm hoping that I get less understeer as well from going from 1/12" toe in in the front (each side) to zero toe
Inside tire wear on the highway isn't really a concern

_________________
Money ---> Heat and Noise

MMSC #12/ASP

Camber about -3.5
Caster I think 5
Zero total toe.

_________________
ASCC VP Membership
'01 DHG Mustang Bullitt #16
'22 Golf R

-1.5 front camber
Zero front toe

-2.5 rear camber
.25 degree toe out on rear

Camber is essentially maxed out. I swapped my stock wagon suspension for lowered sedan springs and STI struts, so I lost 1 or 2 degrees of camber.

Car used to understeer badly before alignment. With zero front and 1/4 toe out rear, it turns in nicely now, and very stable on the highway. No odd wear on the street tires. Track tires still have outer tread block issues.

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Brent O'Connor
ASCC Member
MHPDC Volunteer
2007 Mustang GT
Kentville

Front:
-1.2/side front camber
zero toe
Caster -- ?

Rear
-1.2/side
~3/16 total toe in.

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#20 Scion FR-S 6MT Powered by:
Great North Performance, Morine's Towing Performance & Off Road, Jani-King Canada and Blue Buzzard Performance Parts.

2013+14+15 Atlantic Sports Car Club Overall Autocross Champion
2013+14+15 Atlantic Region Motor Sports Overall Autocross Champion
2017-18 BAC Overall Rallycross Champion

LOL. Some racers take the alignment out of there cars before they sell them so the next guy (the guy who most likly just paid a bunch for it) doesnt have it. Ive even seen adds wear it will cost you a extra $$$ for the alignment specs to be shared with the new owner. Springs are changed, shock settings changed.

Civic is -2.8 front camber
-2.2 rear camber
Castor is whatever the skunk 2 arms do. No adjustment.
1/16th inch toe out front
0 toe rear
Del sol is close to this as well but a shade different due to the higher spring rates and more vehicle weight.

All these alingment specs are all closish. But with spring rates and different suspention systems and vehicle weights, dont really work back and forth. LOL reading tysons specs was kinda funny. alomost no camber and toe-in. But rear wheel drive truck, with 4 miles of steering parts. That truck works very well. I would love to see you drop in a LS1 and 5-6 speed setup sometime soon as it would be a monster setup with some 275 hoosiers alround Maybe even give that mustang a run for its money.

_________________
Watch out for porcupine exiting turn 9!!!!!!

AX-1995 Honda Civic CX FSP
RR-1995 Honda DelSol VTEC GT4
2009 Canadian Solosprint Champion.
ARMS Race Director. Race@armsinc.ca

240sx
Front :-3
Rear: -1.5
Caster: 7'ish, Close to touching the wheel well liners.
Toe: 1/4 out front, 1/8 in rear

As much camber (~-3.5) as I can get without the shock nut hitting the strut tower. Maximum caster (~7). Front toed out when the camber is maxed. Rear is pretty much factory, toe in and probably about -1 degree of camber.

I really should get an alignment, but the current setup seems to be working for me and there are no good shops around where I work. But the rcomps are wearing well and that is all that matters. And if I find another set of 4 pilot super sports for 100 bucks I'll probably put it off again

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'99 BMW M3 / "Elvic"

Thats about what I ran on my M3, maybe a bit less rear camber, worked very well.

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Paul

I really cant believe you guys are blabbing all of your setup secrets.

_________________
GT1 - 88 Camaro 1LE/Nissan 200SX
GT2 - 90 CRX/Nissan 200SX
GT3 - 88 CRX/1975 Civic/1997 Acura Integra
GT4 - 93/2000 Mazda Miata
GT5 - 89 Suzuki Swift GTI
GT6 - 86 CRX
ITE - 88 Camaro 1LE
ITA - 89/90 CRX Si
ITB - 85 Civic 1500S/89 Suzuki Swift GTI
ITC - 85/86 Civic
SM - 93/2000 Mazda Miata
Targa NL - 88 CRX Si
Rally Sprint - 95 Del Sol VTEC
Unlimited - All of the above!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
changes alignment before selling car!
lol.

_________________
Watch out for porcupine exiting turn 9!!!!!!

AX-1995 Honda Civic CX FSP
RR-1995 Honda DelSol VTEC GT4
2009 Canadian Solosprint Champion.
ARMS Race Director. Race@armsinc.ca

Lol
There is no money involved and we all drive different card
It's nothing like spec Miata in that capacity, so it'sall in good fun

_________________
Money ---> Heat and Noise

MMSC #12/ASP

Sooo...remember when buying a race car to pick it up at the track after a winning race !!!

My camber curve is fairly aggressive so I don't need to run much static negative camber. It also makes the dartiness worse so I've toned it down. I ran -1.5 per side with 1/8" toe out one season and the turn-in and grip was awesome but it was absolutely terrifying on the highway. The LSx T56 idea is always in the back of mind but it would cost $5K+ to do it and that's a lot of coin to spend on a truck with 4 miles of steering parts!!! Funny that you should mention a mustang though...

Stacey - thanks for the input on the bump steer. Correction kits are less than $200 and they're adjustable so I may just pick one up and tinker with it. The other option would be to go with geometry-corrected billet tall spindles from ATS (about $1200 plus new brakes).

_________________
You can't make a race car out of a pig, but you can make a pretty fast pig.
The pigs - '95 Firebird, '09 G8 Gt

Al-ign-mint? What's that?

_________________
"Nos Ludos Intra Vehicula"

"That is on the floor..... in fifth..... 6500????..." -Buffum to Smith (140mph+, Rallye Charlevoix.....)

"A HUNDRED AND EIGHTY FIVE DOLLARS????"

"Great, now we're gonna get frikken' yelled at....."
"Let the record show that the evening degenerated at 2022hrs..... Duly noted..."

'99 civic.

camber
FR. -2.0, RR -1.5

toe
FR 0.0, RR -0.12 (-0.24 total)

caster
stock/no adjustment


'00 s2000

camber
FR. -1.5, RR -1.6

toe
FR 0.0, RR 0.10 (0.20 total)

castor
6.0

probably going to add more neg. camber to rear and possibly switch to smaller sway bar to help tame some oversteer... or, maybe just learn how to drive a FR! lol