Rallycross season is fast approaching and i've started to get a number of inquiries about the (originally jokingly) proposed Spec Yaris class, and what would be 'class legal'. First off, I'll just say that this isn't anything official, but rather a fun way to get everybody in similar setups so we can really get some good competitive racing going this season!
First, why a Yaris? Because they're cheap, bulletproof, quick enough and double as awesome winter beaters. An 'okay' example manual hatchback (2006 or 2007) with higher miles can be had for as little as $1500, for $2500 you can get something the ladies will be impressed by, and for ~$4000 you can get the nicest Yaris you've never dreamt of. You can depend on the car to be reliable, driving to-from events without any issue. Over the entire of the last season, we had to replace the serpentine belt (15$ and 10 minutes to do), one wheel bearing and one axle seal. That's it. That's every event for an entire season with 3-5 drivers per event. Finally, they're FWD and well-balanced. You'll learn more about car control in a season of FWD yaris driving than a season of autoslalom in any other car, guaranteed. These cars have no shortage of oversteer when you ask for it, and have no problem going quicker than the bulk of AWD cars at any given event when driven right.
Okay, you're convinced. What are the rules?
Rule 1: You need a Yaris. An Echo is also acceptable, but they're getting to the age where they're going to be rotten. Yaris' are so undesirable to normal people that they're stupid cheap anyways. This makes older cars not really worth it. (Other FWD hatches may be considered, but why would you want them? they'll be more expensive (Honda Fit), slower or less reliable (Anything 'merican).)
Rule 2: Tires must be Hankook I*Pike RC01. Don't even bother with anything else. They from Canadian Tire http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/hankook-i-pike-rc01-winter-tire-0031511p.html and regularly go on sale for like 40-50 bucks per tire (or 33$ if you get and Echo and use 13" wheels). These have awesome grip in deep snow as well as gravel. They can be studded ($20/tire at CT) for ice events, but you'll rip them out on their first gravel run.
Rule 3: No more rules. we keep our car(s) pretty much stock. We've added a skid plate since the oil pan is the low-hanging fruit. You can lift it or whatever you want. You won't find any aftermarket go-fast bits for these cars though. You don't want to be the guy that modifies a yaris anyways.
So, get a co-driver or three and get yourselves a Yaris! For those actually looking at cars, theres a few common problem areas you want to look at. Common issues include minor exhaust leaks at the doughnut/flex joint and siezing of e brake cables. If the car is starting to rust out, it'll happen first on the rear of the rocker panels where the paint has been blasted away by rocks.
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 11:26 am Posts: 554 Location: Elmsdale, Nova Scotia
I'm in the process of looking to purchase a new rally cross car for the season.....this sounds like fun. One question...are you allowed to strip the interior?
_________________ "On snow or ice or gravel, we all know that a car will not stop or steer. And yet rally cars do both of these things. That means the whole thing is sorcery, and the people who do the driving must be witches." - Jermy Clarkson.
Neither of those things matter a whit for RallyCross.
exactly why we're not fixing it on our backup yaris! plus the ebrake cables are oddly expensive...
Wayne Pitts wrote:
One question...are you allowed to strip the interior?
Only if you put a cage in it to equal the weight out! But actually, I personally wouldn't have a problem with it, we often drive with a codriver for fun, so weight has never been a big deal. Plus we've taken our stock drivers seat out and put an S2000 one in. Really you can do pretty much anything, lol. As long as nobody shows up with a turbo Yaris with these tires, we'll be stoked.
Just an out loud thought, and I am NOT trying to stir the pot:
Is worth checking a few other hatches that have the same HP/weight ratio, displacement, and rough wheelbase that would fit. This may allow some others to enter another viable alternative.
Or, is your wish to maintain the Toyota Hatch Lineage?
-I
_________________ "Nos Ludos Intra Vehicula"
"That is on the floor..... in fifth..... 6500????..." -Buffum to Smith (140mph+, Rallye Charlevoix.....)
"A HUNDRED AND EIGHTY FIVE DOLLARS????"
"Great, now we're gonna get frikken' yelled at....." "Let the record show that the evening degenerated at 2022hrs..... Duly noted..."
I have no affinity to Toyota hatches, other than what I've already mentioned. I agree that there's a ton of other cars that fit into this size category well. These are all small hatchbacks that show similar speed. I'd consider these cars on a similar playing field.
Yaris/Echo (110hp, 2300lbs, ~2.5m wheelbase) Honda Fit (~90hp, 2400lbs, ~2.5m wheelbase) Hyundai Accent (100-110hp, 2250-2500lbs, ~2.5m wheelbase) Pontiac Wave/Aveo/Whatever (~100-110hp, 2100-2500lbs, ~2.5m wheelbase) Kia Rio 5 (110hp, 2400lbs, 2.5m wheelbase)
Once you go up in class of cars, you get more powerful/heavier cars and I don't care for thinking about comparing them. You'll have Matrix's with 160hp, Astra's are a bit bigger with 140hp, Mazda 3's are at least 150hp, Golf's that weigh 3000lbs. These biggers cars inevitably have bigger wheels/more expensive tires, some cars will have LSD's and so on.
So, hatchbacks that are ~110hp, 2300lbs and 2.5m wheelbase will be the starting point for Spec Hatchback (Yaris).
If there's enough interest I will. if it's just the two cars from Team Superturd, then maybe not. I think if we even got one more car with shared drivers, we could have 8-10 regular competitors. This would be a decent sized class, which itself may draw more people in.
I'll try to attend, I'm finally free tuesday evenings
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 11:26 am Posts: 554 Location: Elmsdale, Nova Scotia
Ian Pearce wrote:
Looks like a good approach.
The Sept meeting of BAC, do you intend to bring this forward as a class?
-I
I can't make the Sept meeting, I'll be in Portugal, but someone should definitely bring this up.
_________________ "On snow or ice or gravel, we all know that a car will not stop or steer. And yet rally cars do both of these things. That means the whole thing is sorcery, and the people who do the driving must be witches." - Jermy Clarkson.
The yaris (or echo) really seems like the one to get. Fits are super expensive, and aveos/old accents/old rios are pretty much straight trash. But if people want to get them, more competition is better.
I would also specifically exclude any pre 2001 honda hatch because they have real suspension.
An interesting quote from Rob on a Yaris Forum from UK. He built a Yaris rally car for fun competition as well as other uses...
i like that you didn't throw away creature comforts for "bleeding edge" performance! especially considering that Rally racing requires so much more skill than "power"
Certain decisions and compromises were made on this build. My previous rally car was built solely for rallying at the pointy end of the field. It had no creature comforts at all and sacrificed everything including drivability to do so. It was perfectly suited for one purpose and one purpose only, going fast in the forest. It was an absolute prick for anything else though.
This car on the other hand was built to be a reliable, understressed, fun, jack of all trades type car. Whether it be on dirt, at a circuit, doing hill climbs, autocross or simply driving on the street. The seats are on rails to allow different drivers to use the car at motorkhanas. The air con was kept because there is nothing better than finishing a 20km long stage in 40 degree (C) heat with 90% humidity and then rolling down the top half of your race suit and turning the air con on max to help lower your body temp. There are also full day long combined navigation/ speed events over here where you drive for about 10 hours, cover around 500kms while deciphering maps, answering questions and doing little speed tests (closed road, race tracks, motorkhanas etc). Some comfort is required if you don't want to spend the next three days with a sore body and ringing ears.
I didn't start competing til I was in my 30's, far too late to be really good at it as I'm not as young and dumb as I used to be. I care far too much for the car to throw it at the trees which is what you have to be prepared to do to be really quick. And I don't have the huge budget needed to run at the front of the field. Besides all that, I simply don't have the talent to be super quick, those that are, are just freaks of nature .
And I agree whole heartedly that it's the driver, not the car, that makes the difference. Put a quick driver in anything and he will be quick. Put a slow driver in a quick car and they just have bigger and more spectacular crashes.
_________________ GT1 - 88 Camaro 1LE/Nissan 200SX GT2 - 90 CRX/Nissan 200SX GT3 - 88 CRX/1975 Civic/1997 Acura Integra GT4 - 93/2000 Mazda Miata GT5 - 89 Suzuki Swift GTI GT6 - 86 CRX ITE - 88 Camaro 1LE ITA - 89/90 CRX Si ITB - 85 Civic 1500S/89 Suzuki Swift GTI ITC - 85/86 Civic SM - 93/2000 Mazda Miata Targa NL - 88 CRX Si Rally Sprint - 95 Del Sol VTEC Unlimited - All of the above!
That guy seems to have his priorities straight. Reliability and durability are important for me, since I have other thing's I'd rather be wrenching on or doing, than fixing a dirty car. If you're not trying to win, but can have 90% as much fun for 10% of the price, it starts to make sense.
Also, a Yaris with A/C? Look at mr moneybags over there
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum
Login
Register
FAQ
Search
